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(14-28.04.2011)<\/em><\/p>\n

(N\u00fcfus: 2,5 milyon, Y\u00fckseklik: 3660m)<\/em><\/p>\n

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Makarnan\u0131n pi\u015fme s\u00fcresinin 20,<\/p>\n

yumurtan\u0131n kaynama s\u00fcresinin 10 dakika oldu\u011fu \u015fehir buras\u0131..<\/p>\n

k\u0131yafetler daha \u00e7abuk kuruyor..<\/p>\n

alkol daha h\u0131zl\u0131 kana kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor!<\/p>\n

Ad\u0131n\u0131n anlam\u0131 da bar\u0131\u015f\u2019tan ge\u00e7iyor!!<\/p>\n

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Her ne kadar \u015fehirle\u015fmi\u015f olursa olsun, yolda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken birden bir lama, sokak ortas\u0131nda bir lang\u0131rt masas\u0131, cad\u0131lar pazar\u0131, kat kat etekli k\u00f6yl\u00fclerin g\u00fcre\u015fi… gibi \u00e7e\u015fitli abs\u00fcrdl\u00fcklar g\u00f6rmek, La Paz\u2019da g\u00fcne\u015fin do\u011fu\u015fu, bat\u0131\u015f\u0131 kadar do\u011fal anla\u015f\u0131lan.<\/p>\n

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Neredeyse her g\u00fcn ba\u015fka bir protesto olmas\u0131na da, haliyle \u015fa\u015fmamal\u0131.<\/p>\n

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Kent, 1548 y\u0131l\u0131nda, Alonso de Mendoza’nun \u00f6nderli\u011findeki ispanyollar taraf\u0131ndan Nuestra Se\u00f1ora de La Paz<\/em> (“Bar\u0131\u015f\u0131n kutsanm\u0131\u015f Meryem Anas\u0131”) ad\u0131yla kurulmu\u015f.1825’de ise ispanyadan ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k i\u00e7in sava\u015fan cumhuriyet\u00e7ilerin, Ayacucho’da ispanyol ordusunu yenmesinden sonra, kentin ad\u0131 La Paz de Ayacucho<\/em> (“Ayacucho Bar\u0131\u015f\u0131”) olarak de\u011fi\u015ftirilmi\u015f.<\/p>\n

Accomodation:<\/span><\/em><\/strong> Couchsurfing yapmadan \u00f6nce, \u015fahsen Onkell Inn\u2019de, \u00e7ok da memnun kald\u0131m.<\/p>\n

G\u00f6r\u00fclesiler:<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

(Nerdeyse her yerden, her yere giden minib\u00fcsler, sadece 1-2b\u2019lar. Yerliler, istikameti ba\u011f\u0131r\u0131yor, semt de\u011fi\u015ftik\u00e7e, kartlar da de\u011fi\u015fiyor.)<\/p>\n

\u015eehir i\u00e7indekiler<\/span><\/em>:<\/p>\n

Mercado Negro<\/em><\/p>\n

Mercado de Hechiceria (cad\u0131lar pazar\u0131) \u2013<\/em> ad\u0131 \u00fcst\u00fcnde, cins cins \u015feyler var haliyle. ama kurutulmu\u015f lama fet\u00fcsleri, bence birincili\u011fi g\u00f6t\u00fcr\u00fcyor (inan\u0131\u015flar\u0131na g\u00f6re, yeni eve ge\u00e7tiklerinde, pachamamaya yapt\u0131klar\u0131 sunummu\u015f kendisi). Pazar, sadece bir sokak\u00e7\u0131ktan olu\u015fmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, her t\u00fcrl\u00fc egzantrik ila\u00e7lardan, tariflerden – zengin olmak, evlenmek, korunmak vs gibi d\u00fcnyevi dilekler i\u00e7in, \u00f6nceden okunmu\u015f, \u00fcflenmi\u015f ayin malzemelerine kadar, envai \u00e7e\u015fit enstantane var..<\/p>\n

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Koka yapra\u011f\u0131 fal\u0131 bile bakt\u0131rabilirsiniz k\u00f6\u015fe ba\u015f\u0131nda (yapraklar\u0131n tersinin mi, d\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn m\u00fc ve nereye d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc\u011f\u00fcne bak\u0131larak yorumlan\u0131yor).<\/p>\n

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Museo de la Coca<\/em> \u2013 Giri\u015fte muz k\u00fclleri ile birlikte verdikleri koka yapraklar\u0131n\u0131, yana\u011f\u0131n\u0131zla di\u015fleriniz aras\u0131nda 20dk civar\u0131 tutup t\u00fck\u00fcr\u00fcyorsunuz. \u015eahsen ben, pek bir \u015fey anlamad\u0131m. Ama b\u0131rak\u0131n yerlileri, gringolar\u0131n bile yanaklar\u0131n\u0131, koka yapraklar\u0131 ile dolu g\u00f6rebiliyorsunuz s\u00fcrekli. Tarihi, yarar ve zararlar\u0131, kullan\u0131\u015f \u015fekilleri gibi bir s\u00fcr\u00fc bilgiyi de i\u00e7inde bar\u0131nd\u0131ran m\u00fczeden bir ka\u00e7 al\u0131nt\u0131: M\u00d6 2800 \u2013 1800 Kuzey Peru\u2019da bulunan mumyalarda koka yapraklar\u0131na rastlanm\u0131\u015f. M\u00d6 2100 Nazca ve Vale Diviana\u2019da koka yapra\u011f\u0131 \u00e7i\u011fneme gelene\u011fi ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f. 1200-1475 Inkalar, doktorlarla birle\u015ferek, koka yapra\u011f\u0131n\u0131, t\u00fcm\u00f6r amelyatlar\u0131nda kullanmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015flar… Devam\u0131 i\u00e7in \u2013 vanessataragano@gmail.com<\/a> -)<\/p>\n

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Museo de Instrumentos Musicales<\/em> (hayalimdeki meditasyon yeri, ruhumun dili)<\/p>\n

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Museo de Etnografia y Folklore<\/em><\/p>\n

Museo del Nacional Arte<\/em> – Latin Amerika\u2019da gezdi\u011fim en iyi modern sanat galerilerinden biriydi.<\/p>\n

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Aymara yerlisi me\u015fhur Mamani Mamani\u2019nin de eserlerinin bulundu\u011fu bu galeride, kar\u015f\u0131 sanat ustalar\u0131 da vard\u0131 imza sahipleri. \u2018Ayr\u0131mc\u0131l\u0131\u011fa, tacize, e\u015fitsizli\u011fe kar\u015f\u0131\u2019 konulu eserlerin, her birinin anlam\u0131 derindi. \u00c7inli bir artist, \u00fclkesinin bug\u00fcnk\u00fc durumunu, 16-18yy\u2019da ispanyollar\u0131n yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 kolonizasyonla ili\u015fkilendirerek, fark\u0131ndal\u0131k yaratmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n

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Ba\u015fka bir artistin, \u00e7ekmi\u015f oldu\u011fu \u2018y\u00fcr\u00fcyen i\u015f\u00e7iler\u2019 g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclerini, ortaya koydu\u011fu video enst\u00fclasyonu sayesinde, sadece elinizde tuttu\u011funuz bir A4 paspartu \u00fczerinde, \u00fcstelik ba\u015f a\u015fa\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6rebiliyordunuz. Ba\u015fka bir cesur eserde, trinity\u2019i (the son & the father & the holy spirit\u2019i ve \u00f6zellikle kad\u0131n olmamas\u0131n\u0131) ele\u015ftiriyorlard\u0131.<\/p>\n

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P.s. E\u011fer Dantza\u2019y\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcrseniz, l\u00fctfen benden \u00e7ok selam s\u00f6yleyin.<\/p>\n

Museo Tambo Quirquincho<\/em><\/p>\n

Villa de la Luna<\/em><\/p>\n

Villa de Animas<\/em><\/p>\n

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Calle Jean<\/em> (bohem bir koloniyel sokak)<\/p>\n

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Museo Tambo Quirquincho<\/em><\/p>\n

Museo Nacional de Arqueologia<\/em><\/p>\n

Ve her zaman oldu\u011fu gibi<\/p>\n

plazalar (14 de septembre\/san francisco\/pedro murillo<\/em>… )<\/p>\n

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ve mercado
\nve Mirador var.<\/p>\n

El prado (buran\u0131n en \u015f\u0131k ve en merkez caddesi.. ak\u015famlar\u0131 sokaklarda breakdance kap\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131 yummyyy, g\u00f6r\u00fcrseniz l\u00fctfen benim i\u00e7in videoya \u00e7eker misinizzz)<\/p>\n

\u015eehrin D\u0131\u015f\u0131ndakiler:<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Mercado El Alto<\/em> – Per\u015fembe ve pazarlar\u0131 olan bu pazarda, heralde yok bile var :p ..<\/p>\n

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Baz\u0131 ak\u015famlar, daha \u00f6nce bahsetmi\u015f oldu\u011fum yerlilerin g\u00fcre\u015fi bile var.<\/p>\n

\u0130llimani da\u011f\u0131<\/em><\/p>\n

Tiwanaku – <\/em>Bu Pre-Inka kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131n giri\u015fi i\u00e7in 85b isteniyor, ama 3 m\u00fcze, 2 tarihi kal\u0131nt\u0131 alan da i\u00e7inde. Buraya kalmaya gelenler de var, ama bence, g\u00fcn\u00fc birlik de gayet yeterli.<\/p>\n

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K\u0131saca not ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m bilgiler ise \u015f\u00f6yle: Hakk\u0131nda \u00e7ok \u015fey bilinmiyor ama burada ya\u015fayan toplulu\u011fun, M\u00d6 600 \u2013 1200 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda, Tiwanaku\u2019yu dinsel rit\u00fcelleri\u00a0 i\u00e7in kulland\u0131klar\u0131 \u00f6ng\u00f6r\u00fcl\u00fcyor. Evler ise, yakla\u015f\u0131k 1000m uzaktaym\u0131\u015f. Tiwanaku eskiden bir g\u00f6lm\u00fc\u015f. 90 y\u0131l ya\u011fmursuz kal\u0131nca, haliyle kurumu\u015f. Bu y\u00fczden de \u2018kuru nehir\u2019 anlam\u0131na gelen bu ismi alm\u0131\u015f. Positive ve erkek enerjiyi simgeleyen volkanik ta\u015flar ve kad\u0131n\/negative enerjiyi sembolleyen kil ta\u015f\u0131 kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f yap\u0131m\u0131nda. Bir tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7i tamamiyle y\u00fczlerden yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f heykellerle doluydu. De\u011fi\u015fen insan suratlar\u0131n\u0131, ta\u015flardan g\u00f6rmek enteresand\u0131 bir deneyimdi.<\/p>\n

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One special night – 28 april<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Couchsurfing yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m Sicco, eskiden Hollanda konsoloslu\u011funda \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yormu\u015f. Davet edildi\u011fi geceye saolsun beni de \u00e7a\u011f\u0131rd\u0131 ve sayesinde \u00e7ok g\u00fczel, unutulmaz bir gece ya\u015fad\u0131m. Gece, yakla\u015f\u0131k 30 ki\u015fiden olu\u015fan bir orkestran\u0131n, ilk yar\u0131, Vincent Marrone d\u2019Alberti piyanosu e\u015fli\u011finde Mozart, 2. yar\u0131 ise, Eduardo Paredes\u2019\u0131n keman\u0131 \u00f6nderli\u011finde Tchaikovsky \u00e7almas\u0131 ile ba\u015flad\u0131. Ben de bir uzay\u0131 dola\u015f\u0131p geldim arada.<\/p>\n

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Ard\u0131ndan ba\u015flayan kokteyl esnas\u0131nda, m\u00fcthi\u015f karizmatik ve sempatik \u00f6tesi ba\u015f konsolos, yan\u0131m\u0131za gelerek, bizimle sohbet etti. Ekvator\u2019un da ba\u015f konsolosuymu\u015f bir ara. Favori \u00fclkesi ise Mozambik!!!! T\u00fcrk olmama g\u00f6sterdi\u011fi ilginin etkisiyle, beni me\u015fhur italyan piyanist Vincent Marrone d\u2019Alberti ile de tan\u0131\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131. Kar\u015f\u0131mda duran bu koca adam, az \u00f6nce kon\u00e7ertoda, melodilerin aras\u0131nda kaybolup, ruhuyla bir balete d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc halbuki. Elleri o kadar h\u0131zl\u0131 hareket ediyordu ki, nas\u0131l da tu\u015flar\u0131 ok\u015fuyodu.. V\u00fccudu, m\u00fczi\u011fe zaman zaman a\u011fl\u0131yor, zaman zaman g\u00fcl\u00fcyordu. Vincent\u2019\u0131n hislerinin, hassasl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n sesleri de vard\u0131 orkestra i\u00e7inde. Bu y\u00fczden kolay olmad\u0131 pek, i\u00e7imde hissettiklerimin en az\u0131ndan bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 saklamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak konu\u015fmak. Violinist de \u00e7ok iyiydi. Mimikleri ile notalar\u0131n hikayesini anlat\u0131yordu \u00e7alarken. Dedi\u011fim gibi, \u00f6zel bir gece daha ya\u015fad\u0131m bu Yol\u2019da.. sonsuz te\u015fekk\u00fcrler..<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

(14-28.04.2011) (N\u00fcfus: 2,5 milyon, Y\u00fckseklik: 3660m) Makarnan\u0131n pi\u015fme s\u00fcresinin 20, yumurtan\u0131n kaynama s\u00fcresinin 10 dakika oldu\u011fu \u015fehir buras\u0131.. k\u0131yafetler daha \u00e7abuk kuruyor.. alkol daha h\u0131zl\u0131 kana kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor! Ad\u0131n\u0131n anlam\u0131 da bar\u0131\u015f\u2019tan ge\u00e7iyor!! Her ne kadar \u015fehirle\u015fmi\u015f olursa olsun, yolda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken birden bir lama, sokak ortas\u0131nda bir lang\u0131rt masas\u0131, cad\u0131lar pazar\u0131, kat kat etekli k\u00f6yl\u00fclerin g\u00fcre\u015fi… […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[32,9],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4516"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4516"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4516\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4581,"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/4516\/revisions\/4581"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4516"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=4516"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/vanessastateofmind.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=4516"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}